The Beauty of Wheal Coates
There is no doubting that Wheal Coates not only offers a fascinating glimpse into tin mining history, but it also is one of the most dramatic and stunning tin mines in Cornwall. Siting above the cliffs of the North Coast, where waves roll in from the Atlantic, its seems unimaginable that this was once a busy industrial landscape. Parts of this mine literally cling to the cliff edge like a limpet; and as you stand at the edge on a cold, rain lashed day, you have to wonder what drove men to work in such a harsh yet haunting environment.
A potted history of Wheal Coates
Wheal Coates is now under the care of the National Trust but it started its life in 1802 and worked until 1889. At the height of its production, 137 people were employed at the site (though this estimate varies) and there were several attempts after 1889 to rebreathe life in to the works but these finally came to an end in 1914. Like Levant and Botallack, the mine followed a seam of ore running out under the sea bed and over its lifetime the mine produced 717 tons of tin and 335 tons of copper. Now its shafts and tunnels are reclaimed by the ocean; though at the nearby cliffs by Chapel Porth beach is Wheal Coates Cave, the lower end of the mine workings. You can still see old timbers supporting the mine shafts.
Like many tin mining areas there was activity well before 1802 here with some evidence of workings in 1692, and most likely now lost workings pre date this. Certainly the rugged landscape of trenches and pits scattered across this area suggest medieval open cast mining efforts. But in time mining faded from Cornwall’s grasp and we are left with the iconic image of Towanroath Engine House clinging to the cliff and adorning many a postcard. It is interesting to note however that Towanroath Engine House is in fact a late comer to the scene, built in 1872. It was used to pump water out of the deeper parts of the mine. The tunnels in this place went under the sea for a long way. Now, in its shadow, a metal grid covers a deep shaft. You will be drawn to it like so many others, dropping a stone down and counting the many seconds until it hits the bottom. Sometimes the noise of the waves crashing can be heard emanating from the blackness.
Finding your way
Parking is pay as display or NT membership. Its a wild, open, gravel spot. No amenities except for bushes. And as soon as you begin the walk towards the cliff you find yourself in a maze of Gorse and heather. Stepping off the trail will lead to scratched and bleeding calves and, of course, the ever present risk of falling down a undiscovered shaft or pit. It is really not worth straying off the beaten tracks -they are beaten for a reason.
In the distance you will soon see the engine houses (including Whim Engine House) atop the cliff and the nearby calciner ruins where ore was once heated to drive off impurities such as arsenic. Spend some time exploring here and reading the information boards. Try to imagine working here, especially if you arrive on a windy and wet day. Finally descend down to the iconic Towanroath Engine House. And if feeling brave or energetic, consider walking further still to either Chapel Porth of towards St Agnes.
For the photographer amongst you, hunt around for some great angles. Sunrise and sunset shots are a plenty as well as the cliffs and stormy seas.
St Agnes Beacon
Nearby is St Agnes Beacon, a worthy walk for great views. It can also form part of a circular walk. From the top of St Agnes Beacon in Cornwall, you can see some of the most beautiful places in the country when you stand next to the Trig Mark. In fact you can see 30 miles out to sea from St Agnes Beacon, which is 192m (630ft) tall. You would not be surprised to hear ere that the ‘beacon’ refers to one of many across Cornwall which were lit at the Summer Solstice in years gone by. Parts of St Agnes Beacon are remarkable for heavy clay and sand deposits. In some places these layers are 40ft thick. It’s thought that these deposits were laid down in the Late Cretaceous period, some 79 million years ago.
Wheal Coates lies on the South West Coast Path between Porthtowan and St Agnes, two places well worth visits in their own rights.
Best food in town
Finally a special mention must go to the Wheal Coates Tearoom. There is a reason why it gets 5 out of 5 on Trip Advisor. But that’s for you to discover after your breath-taking walk around this site.
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